It's what's inside that counts...

Unlined | Fused | Half-Canvas | Full-Canvas

Tailored jackets come in various constructions, each offering different qualities in terms of structure, comfort, and longevity. Let's explore the key differences between unlined, fused, half-canvas, and full canvas jackets.

UNLINED JACKETS

Unlined jackets, also known as unstructured jackets, are the most casual option. These jackets lack the traditional internal structure, resulting in a more relaxed fit and appearance.

Key characteristics:

• No internal lining
• Minimal or no shoulder padding
• Soft, natural drape
• Lightweight and breathable
• Ideal for warm weather or casual settings

Unlined jackets offer the most freedom of movement and are perfect for summer wear or casual occasions. They tend to wrinkle more easily but provide excellent breathability, but of course this also depends on fabric. Sometimes these will be in more general sizes Small to X-Large instead of the more precise chest sizing of traditional tailored suits and jackets.

FUSED JACKETS

Fused jackets use a very thin membrane-like synthetic interlining that is glued (fused) on the inside to the outer fabric to provide structure. This construction method is common in mass-produced, off-the-rack suits due to its cost-effectiveness.

Key characteristics:

• Synthetic interlining glued to the outer fabric
• Stiffer appearance and feel
• Prone to bubbling or delamination over time
• Less expensive than canvas options
• Shorter lifespan compared to canvas constructions

While fused jackets are more affordable, they often lack the natural drape and longevity of canvas constructions. The glued interlining can deteriorate over time, leading to bubbling or separation of layers, and often occurs from repetetive cleaning and/or over-exposure to damp or rain, causing the fabric to shrink whereas the fusing does not.

HALF-CANVAS JACKETS

Half-canvas jackets represent a middle ground between fused and full canvas constructions. They feature canvas material in the chest and lapel areas, with fusing used in the lower portion of the jacket.

Key characteristics:

• Canvas in the chest and lapels
• Fused construction below the chest piece
• Better drape and shape in the upper body
• More affordable than full canvas
• Longer lifespan than fully fused jackets

Half-canvas jackets offer a good balance of quality and affordability. They provide better shaping and durability in the crucial chest and lapel areas while keeping costs down.

FULL CANVAS JACKETS

Full canvas jackets are considered the pinnacle of tailoring craftsmanship. They feature a canvas interlining that runs the entire length of the jacket, from shoulders to hem.

Key characteristics:

• Full-length canvas interlining
• Superior drape and shape
• Molds to the wearer's body over time
• Highest quality construction
• Longest lifespan
• Most expensive option

Full canvas jackets offer the best fit, drape, and longevity. The canvas allows the jacket to conform to the wearer's body over time, resulting in a personalized fit. While they are the most expensive option, they also offer the best value in terms of longevity and appearance.

Choosing the Right Construction

When selecting a jacket construction, consider your budget, intended use, and desired longevity:

• For casual wear, an unlined jacket may be ideal.
• If budget is a primary concern, a fused jacket can be a suitable entry-level option, but we generally do not recommend it.
• For a balance of quality and affordability, consider a half-canvas construction.
• If you're looking for the best quality and longevity, invest in a full canvas jacket.

Can you actually tell the difference?

While many, and perhaps most men may not have the discerning eye to tell the difference, there are certainly some who can just by looking at the garment and the way it moves and fits on a body. Can one feel the difference when putting it on? We would say you most certainly can. We encourage you to discover for yourself and see if you can feel the difference. Most of what we carry is at the very least half canvassed, but we do of course have full canvas garments as well.

Remember that regardless of construction, proper fit remains the most crucial factor in how a jacket looks and feels. Always prioritize fit when choosing a tailored jacket. A well-fitting fused jacket or suit will always look better than an ill-fitting full canvas one. Fit is paramount, and your tailor should know your body better than yourself!

A word on fabric

Fabric also plays a critical part, and there is a reason that better made garments use higher quality (and more expensive) fabrics from Italy and Great Britain. Fabric mills with history and heritage have the knowledge and experience, as well as a reputation to uphold. Some of the best Italian mills include Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piana, Zegna, Cerruti, Drago, Colombo, Lanificio Di Pray, Reda, and Carlo Barbera, to name a few.